Share extremely simple tips to focus when taking pictures of Marco

Diễn đàn làm Đẹp  If you are trying to take pictures of the small world of trees and constantly encounter error photos, you will face many challenges. Macro photography is a difficult genre – especially the depth of field, diffraction, and motion blur. Naturally, focusing in Macro photography is not an easy task, but it is a very important thing. How do you optimize your focusing technique to capture small subjects? The answer depends on exactly what you are shooting. The following article will share extremely simple tips to focus when photographing Marco for you

1. Capture relatively large subjects

In macro photography, a “relatively large” subject can be the size of a dragonfly or a flower. It’s still small, but it’s not at the level where you need a lot of expertise to take a sharp picture.


NIKON D7000 + 105mm f/2.8 @ 105mm, ISO 280, 1/400, f/4.0
If your subject is about 4 inches (10 cm) long, my recommendation is to focus as you usually do with moving subjects. Use continuous autofocus mode (AF-C), with autofocus area mode tracking the subject on the frame (like a dynamic area or 3D tracking mode).

Even if your subject is still there (for example, a flower on a windless day), it’s best to use continuous autofocus. That’s because, the flower may not wobble but your hand may shake. Full immobility cannot be held while holding the camera, and any slight movement can be easily disturbed at nearby distances.

The biggest difficulty here is that the subjects are moving and are unable to focus. My main recommendation is to take a few pictures in succession – for example, in burst mode, because only a fraction of a second your image can be in good focus. You will not want to miss it.


NIKON D800E + 105mm f/2.8 @ 105mm, ISO 100, 1/640, f/3.2
2. For smaller objects

By definition, “macro photography” means that you have to focus at 1: 1 or larger magnification. So if your camera sensor is 1.5 inches wide, the entire scene will be 1.5 inches wide or smaller. This makes things difficult.

At this magnification, moving your camera forward or backward by just a few millimeters is more than enough to get your entire image out of focus. And even if you successfully focus, the depth of field will be very small. In fact, if you just want the head and body of an ant to appear in the focus at the same time, you’re probably in luck.

Even the best autofocus systems on this planet will encounter situations like this. The problem gets worse if your subject is moving quickly, and you have to track its movement without losing focus.

But that does not mean that it is impossible to focus on small subjects, even when they are moving. For example, the insects in the photo below move very fast, and I focused on the 1: 1 magnification for this shot. How did I capture it so sharp?

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NIKON D7000 + 105mm f/2.8 @ 105mm, ISO 1250, 1/250, f/22.0
The simple answer: Use focus manually.

Yes, for normal photography, manual focus will be slower than autofocus. In addition, for fast-moving topics, it is usually less accurate. High magnification macro photography is completely different, and here, manual focus is the best option – but only if you use it correctly.

The proper way to focus manually for macro photography is to rotate the focus ring until the image in your viewfinder looks sharp. Instead, it will place your focus ring at a specific point, and then move forward and back until the image appears sharp.

For example, for magnified macro photography, I would position my lens to the closest focusing distance of 1: 1. magnification ratio. Then I would slowly move forward and backward, not too much. two centimeters at a time, wait for my subject to sharpen. When it’s done – have to take a snapshot then.

This process is made easier using a relatively small aperture, typically somewhere from f / 11 to f / 22. That significantly reduces the amount of light in your image and is very you may need to use a flash to optimize your photos.


NIKON D800E + 105mm f/2.8 @ 105mm, ISO 100, 1/250, f/8.0
3. Use a tripod

Some macro macro photography have trouble focusing when handheld, which is solved simply by using a tripod. Which subjects give me this method? In general, for a moving subject, it is almost impossible to use a tripod and shoot macro accurately in focus. Instead, it is best to use a tripod for relatively stable little-moving macro subjects.


NIKON D7000 + 105mm f/2.8 @ 105mm, ISO 100, 1.3 seconds, f/5.6
If your subject is still quiet, you will have a lot of flexibility in how you set up the tripod. You can take a long time when you need to move the presser foot forward and back again, adjust its height and change your composition. However, there are some priceless tripod accessories for this type of photography, as they will make your work much faster: Focusing rails.


Focusing rail
With the Focusing rail, you can move the camera millisecond, in any direction. It can save you a lot of time and headaches in this area.

In addition, the Focusing rail makes it easier to focus your macro photos, which can be valuable to obtain the greatest depth of field possible with non-moving objects.

4. Conclusion

For relatively large subjects, focus as you would any type of photography, as if you were photographing a normal wildlife. However, for smaller subjects, it is best to take it manually, while moving forward and backward until your subject looks as sharp as possible in your viewfinder. This is not the perfect method, so if you’re taking photos of non-moving subjects, you can use a tripod instead of a Focusing rail.

As with all types of photography, the method you use will depend on the subjects you are photographing. It is possible to practice focusing on most subjects in macro photography, so the best thing to do is to practice a lot. You spend more time perfecting each method of focusing, you get better macro photos.

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